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Tech Mods Logitech G27 Wheel

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Tech Mods Logitech G27 Wheel

Postby zappdog » Sat Oct 24, 2015 12:13 am

This mod was done on a Logitech G27 Wheel for Eurotruck Sim, driving a 2008 Peterbuilt 389 with Caterpillar 840 HP with a 18 speed w/ retarder.
Eurotruck 1.21.1
Lets call it a splitter button panel.

Game mods
alltrucktransmissionsv1.5.scs
Peterbilt 389 Modified v1.8.scs

Settings Shifter Layout - Splitter
Sw1 - Shifter Toggle 1
Sw2 - Shifter Toggle 2

I used a scrap piece of Padauk exotic wood 3 x 1 x 1/2" , drilled a 13/32" hole at about 25 degree angle near one end. On the other end I cut two grooves out of the bottom the size of the micro switches and a groove for the wires then rounded off the corners and made it comfortable. Because the grain was so nice I finished with some sanding and a few coats of clear lacquer.
The switches I scrounged from a dead dvd player front panel circuit board. Since there was 4 terminals on these switches, double for each side I used a bit longer wire to cross both terminals. I added a short piece of wire between the Common side of both switches allowing for a 3 wire connection.
I removed the circuit board for the all the switches on the G27 shifter as well as the shift knob and boot. There are a few hidden screws you have to look for to disassemble the shifter housing. It uses soft buttons contacting an interlocking finger type pad on the board. I soldered wires onto TP105 - S6 and TP107 - S5 which are in the on 4-way buttons at the top, Left and Down as well as a Common that goes to one side of all switch pads. Any unused buttons could be used from the shifter button board. The switches I added are numbered Sw1 and Sw2 for my own purposes. I cut off S6 and S5 buttons from the round 4 button pad leaving 3 pins to fasten onto board again leaving the two TP (test points) open for wires. This also leaves the two remaining buttons of the 4-way useable. The buttons could be left so they could also function in line with the added switches but I removed the buttons for more room for the wires. I drilled 2 - 1/16" holes in the board close to each test point for the wires to go through, the board has to fit back in the housing flat so route wires carefully. Choose the location of the holes carefully, look on both sides of board. The switches were glued into the Splitter panel after soldering wires and the bottom covered in 400 grit paper just to protect the switches and wires. Then the wires were routed down through the boot through the housing to the switch board securing down in spots with glue leaving enough slack to allow mounting the Splitter panel on to the shifter shaft. I scrounged a plug and jack from the same dvd player, the plug had a few inches of wire which got soldered to the circuit board and the jack was taken of a circuit board from the dvd player and soldered onto the wires from the splitter panel. This will allow easier replacement of switches or wires by unplugging first. The jack and plug were 5 pin each so two wires were cut off. Once positioned correctly with switches at the right spot for your fingers a drop of Krazy Glue will secure it onto the shaft. Be sure to check for clearance in all gear positions especially Reverse. The wood is a bit too thick under the knob and reverse takes some a bit of extra pressure to engage but not enough to cause any damage as the boot takes up the movement.
I was using two switches on the wheel for splitting and it never felt right but having both switches on the shifter does feel right. 18 gears on one hand feels right. Another thought I had was to modify the knob itself to hold the switches either in the top cover or in the front side but decided to make it a simpler add on instead. It feels a bit too long so perhaps a later mod will be to drill another hole on a bit steeper angle closer to the switches and cut off the back end making the switches closer to the knob and not extended out so far although it took only moments to get the feel for it. Another mod will be to put some sort of button on to the switches as they get tend to make the fingers tender after a few hours driving so need something a bit bigger and contoured. I made two dark coloured wood buttons the width of the panel made from one piece then cut in half and contoured for them a bit for the fingers. The buttons are held on with a strip of double sided foam tape along the top of each and held more permanently with some krazy glue so that they pivot on the foam. I coloured the edge of the foam with a brown marker so it wasn't so noticeable. A photo of that idea is at bottom and it sure does feel much better.
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The base wood is Padauk and the buttons are Menge wood for those that want to know, natural colours, only clear lacquer. Just scraps anyway. Wish I had some birds eye maple to match the dash of the Peterbuilt.
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UPDATE
I really like the way it handles the splitting with the one hand and even where the buttons are in relation to my fingers but they are a bit too close together and it still just doesn't feel right. Then in one of those "bang your head on the steering wheel,repeatedly " moments I figured a new shift knob designed for Eurotruck was in order. After scanning down in the cab of the Peterbuilt to look at the shift knob and a Google search for shift knobs I copied the general style with a custom look. I embedded two switches, one on the side for the thumb and one underneath for the fingers. The wood is a Pine knot cut from a 2x4 with two pieces of Lacewood on the sides. I drilled the same 13/32" hole for the shaft and it is snug with no need for glue and no conflicts with movement. Again the buttons are from the dvd player again with a few minor modifications. Now, this finally feels right. It also feels right in racing games but for those days when I want more conventional G27 style racing this knob has a plug same as the Splitter panel on it so it can be removed in 10 seconds and the original knob can be replaced.
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