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MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

SPORTS - RACING - HOCKEY
BIKES, TRIKES & MOUNTAIN BIKES

MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Thu May 14, 2009 6:30 am

EXCERSIZE IS THE KEY I THINK. I'M 54 YEARS OLD , SLIM AND RIDE MOUNTIAN BIKE BACK AND FORTH TO WORK ALL YEAR ROUND, EVERY DAY. I AM ALSO A SMOKER (UNFORTUNETLY) AND THINK THAT MY DAILY WORK OUT KEEPS ME MUCH BETTER THAN WITHOUT.
OH YA THATS 54 AT 6 FOOT TALL 140 LB AND I CAN STILL GET BOTH FEET BEHIND MY HEAD AT THE SAME TIME. (ALTHOUGH IT TAKES ME A BIT LONGER THESE DAYS) A LOT OF GYMNASTS WOULD HAVE TROUBLE WITH THAT ONE.
I ALSO DO A FAIR BIT OF PHYSICAL WORK IN MY JOB.
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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:41 pm

CHAIN LUBE
I RIDE ALL YEAR LONG AND WINTER AND RAIN CAN TAKE A TOLL ON CHAINS.
I HAVE BEEN WAXING MY CHAIN FOR MANY YEARS. I USE PARAFIN WAX. YES, THE STUFF FOR CANNING AND CANDLE MAKING.
MELT AND HEAT (CAREFULLY, PREFERABLY IN A DOUBLE BOILER) TO 200F, COIL UP CHAIN, SUBMERGE FOR 30 SECONDS, THEN HANG, WIPE DOWN, AND LET COOL. THE CHAIN WILL BE STIFF IF IT WAS NOT HOT ENOUGH BUT IT WILL LOOSEN UP IN A COUPLE OF MINUTES OF RIDING. ANY EXCESS WAX WILL JUST FLAKE OFF.
I HAVE USED OILS AND TRANNY FLUID BUT THEY ARE MESSY, DIRTY AND ATTRACTS DIRT AND GRIT. IF THE CHAIN IS RUSTY, TRANNY FLUID IS ABOUT THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN IT. IT WORKS BETTER THAN MOST AT RUST. BUT I WOULD CLEAN WELL AFTER THE TRANNY FLUID WITH A SOLVENT AND THEN WAX. THIS WAX IS VERY CLEAN AND DRY AND LASTS ABOUT 6 MONTHS TO A YEAR. WORKING ON THE BIKE IS A JOY WITH NOTHING MORE THAN ROAD DIRT. NO GREASY FINGERS. CHECK OUT THE PICS OF MY RIDE. THE CHAIN ALWAYS LOOKS LIKE THAT. AS A BIG BONUS, THE CHAIN ITSELF LASTS 10 TIMES LONGER AS WELL. BEFORE I STARTED WAXING, A CHAIN WOULD WEAR OUT IN A YEAR OR SO (I WAS AVERAGING 5 - 6000 MILES A YEAR). IT WOULD STRETCH AND START SKIPPING. THE CHAIN I NOW HAVE ON MY CRANK MONSTER IS OVER 6 YEARS OLD AND SHOWS NO SIGNS OF WEAR. WAX DOESN'T WASH OFF IN THE RAIN AND WORKS VERY WELL IN EXTREME COLD. IT DOESN'T GET STIFF FROM THE COLD.
I HAVE USED THIS ON MOUNTAIN BIKES AS WELL AS EXPENSIVE ROAD BIKES.
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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:41 pm

POTTY TRAINING WHEELS

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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:42 pm

THE "CRANK MONSTER"
THIS IS MY LITTLE HOT ROD SHORTLY AFTER A COMPLETE REBUILD ABOUT 5 YEARS AGO WITH NEW PAINT SHOWN HERE WITH THE SUMMER SLICKS. 60 KM TOP GEAR.
IT STARTED LIFE AS A $500 BLACK AND YELLOW 21 SPEED (27 SPEED NOW) CCM FROM CANADIAN TIRE. IT WASN'T MUCH OF A BIKE BEFORE DUE TO ALL THE CHEAP PARTS HANGING OFF IT. I SPENT MOST OF A WINTER STRIPPING THE POWDERCOATING OFF, REPAINTING, MADE ALL THE DECALS MYSELF (INCLUDING A NAME FOR IT), HAND POLISHED ALL THE ALUMINUM PARTS, THEN I STARTED HANGING SOME QUALITY PARTS ON IT. $1400 LATER I HAD A PRETTY DECENT RIDE.
A FULLY ADJUSTABLE SUNTOUR FRONT FORK, DEORE XT HARDWARE WITH RAPID-FIRE SHIFTERS, 27 SPEED , 50 TOOTH BIG CHAINRING, 195 MM CRANK ARMS, BEARCLAWS AND TOECLIPS, HANDBUILT WHEELS OF SUN RIMS WITH TITANIUM SPOKES ON DEORE XT HUBS , ALLOY HANDLEBAR STEM, SHORTY HANDLEBARS (18") WITH EXTENSIONS, FOAM GRIPS FOR A ROAD BIKE (FOR MY COMFORT), ALLOY SEAT POST, GEL SADDLE (AGAIN FOR MY COMFORT), CCM DIGITAL SPEEDO, LED FLASHING TAIL LIGHT AND SWAPPED OUT THE 650lb REAR SHOCK SPRING FOR A 500lb (AGAIN FOR MY COMFORT AND PUT ME AN INCH INTO THE SUSPENSION TRAVEL INSTEAD OF ON TOP OF IT).
PAINT IS DUPLICOLOR TOUCH-UP AUTOMOTIVE LACQUER FROM SPRAY BOMBS. VETTE SILVER AND HONDA ACCORD METALLIC BLUE. CLEARCOAT WAS 6 COATS OF AN ACRYLIC CLEAR.
UNDERNEATH THE PAINT IS BARE ALUMINUM, NO PRIMER. AFTER STRIPPING OFF THE FACTORY POWDERCOAT I SANDED IT DOWN TO 1500 GRIT PAPER THEN WIPED IT SUPER CLEAN WITH LACQUER THINNER BEFORE PAINTING (IT LOOKED POLISHED). WITH THE SILVER IT ADHERED REAL GOOD AND WHEN SCRATCHES DID START SHOWING UP, THEY WERE THE SAME COLOR. THE BLUE SWING ARM HAD TO BE PUTTY FINE FILLED AND PRIMERED, THEN THE SAME SILVER USED AS AN UNDERCOAT TO GIVE IT THAT GLEAM. THE BLUE WAS THEN LIGHTLY MISTED ON IN ABOUT 5 COATS TILL I GOT THE COLOR I WANTED. THE BLUE IS ACTUALLY LOTS DARKER IN FULL WET COATS.
DETAILS OF THE DECAL MAKING PROCESS ARE AVAILABLE IN THIS SECTION.
SO I'VE GOT UNDER 2000 INTO IT. IT NOW ALL NEEDS REDOING AGAIN. ITS 5 YEARS SINCE I DID THE REBUILD AND THESE PICS. A REPAINT IS COMING SHORTLY. COLOR SCHEME IS UNDECIDED AT THIS POINT BUT I REALLY DO LIKE THE PRESENT COLORS. I WON'T REALLY KNOW WHAT COLORS IT WILL BE TILL I'M STANDING IN FRONT OF THE DUPLICOLOR PAINT RACK AND SEE WHAT CATCHES MY EYE. I PREFER TO STAY WITH BRIGHT COLORS. VEHICLE DRIVERS SEEM TO NOTICE THEM MORE THAN A DARK COLOR LIKE A COUPLE OF BLACK BIKES I'VE HAD.
IT GETS A TUNE-UP AND TIRE SWAP (KNOBBY / SLICKS) EVERY FALL AND SPRING.
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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:42 pm

IN PRODUCING THE QUALITY LOOKING DECALS ON THE BIKE I USED THE FOLLOWING METHOD.
DECAL WATER TRANSFER PAPER BOUGHT FROM LOCAL HOBBY SHOP. TESTORS BRAND WAS USED. I DESIGNED THE DECAL USING PAINT SHOP PRO 6, A PRETTY GOOD PAINT PROGRAM.
OF COURSE MOST PAINT PROGRAMS ARE CAPABLE, THIS IS JUST MY OWN PREFERENCE. TO ADD MORE FONTS, ADD THEM TO THE "FONTS" FOLDER IN WINDOWS FOLDER. MOST GRAPHIC PROGRAMS WILL PICK UP ALL FONTS FROM WINDOWS/FONTS. WHEN STARTING A NEW GRAPHIC FILE, SET THE RESOLUTION REAL HIGH. PSP6 DEFAULT IS 72 PIXELS PER INCH. FOR DECALS I SET THAT TO 512 PIXELS. AN 8.5 x 11 SHEET WILL BE 80-100MB OR MORE @ 512 PIXELS. GO HIGHER IF FILE SIZE AND PROCESSING SPEED DON'T MATTER ON YOUR SYSTEM.
ONCE YOU HAVE A DESIGN, PRINT IT OUT ON PAPER FIRST. CUT IT OUT AND TRY POSITIONING TO CHECK FOR SIZING. SHOULD IT NEED TO BE BIGGER OR SMALLER, THE RESIZING PART OF A PAINT PROGRAM WILL RESIZE IT TO YOUR NEEDS. ARRANGING DECALS ON THE SHEET CAN SAVE PAPER. I PRINTED ALL THE DECALS ON THE BIKE FROM ONE SHEET AT ONCE. SIZE IS LIMITED TO THE DECAL SHEET SIZE, UNLESS DESIGN CAN BE DIVIDED IN HALF. I USED AN HP INK JET COLOR PRINTER. A LASER STYLE PRINTER CAN BE USED AS WELL AND WILL PRODUCE TRUE COLOURS MUCH BRIGHTER THAN AN INK JET. ONCE SIZE IS RIGHT PRINT OUT ON DECAL SHEET. HANDLE DECAL PAPER BY THE EDGES AND BE VERY CAREFULL OF THE INK UNTIL IT DRIES WELL OVERNIGHT. ONCE THE INK IS DRY, SPRAY ON A VERY LIGHT FOG OF CLEAR LACQUER. THIS WILL FIX THE INK SO IT WON'T SMUDGE. 3 DRY MISTED COATS ARE NEEDED. IF YOU WET IT TOO MUCH THE INK WILL RUN. ONCE A FEW COATS ARE ON IT, LAY ON A BIT WETTER COAT, THEN CUT OUT AND APPLY IN THE NORMAL MANNER FOR DECALS. ONCE IN PLACE AND DRY, SPRAY A COUPLE OF COATS OF CLEARCOAT OVER DECALS TO PROTECT THEM.
THE COLORS WILL TEND TO BE A BIT FADED LOOKING SINCE THE INK DOESN'T SINK IN LIKE PAPER. ADJUSTMENTS TO COLOR DEPTH MAYBE NEEDED. ALSO ALLOW FOR BASE COLOR OF PAINT UNDERNEATH. THE LARGE DECALS (CRANK MONSTER) LOOKED TERRIBLE ON A LIGHT BLUE SILVER COLOR. JUST ABOUT DISAPPEARED. THINK OF THEM AS SEMI-TRANSPARENT. OF COURSE THERE IS ALSO AN INK MADE FOR DECALS AND SIGNAGE THAT WOULD GIVE TRUE COLORS. A PHOTO QUALITY INK WILL BE A BIT BETTER THAN PAPER INK.
THIS METHOD WAS CHOSEN AFTER SPENDING $60 FOR A PRINTHOUSE TO MAKE A SET FROM MY DIGITAL GRAPHICS. THEY WERE CRAP FOR QUALITY AND APPEARANCE AND ENDED UP NOT BEING USED, BUT THE SAME DIGITAL GRAPHICS WERE USED FOR THE SET ON THE BIKE.
AN EXPENSIVE LESSON. THE BLANK DECAL SHEET COST ME $12 FOR A FEW SHEETS AND TURNED OUT MUCH BETTER.
THIS ALSO WORKS WELL FOR MODEL CAR DECALS AS WELL. DESIGN WITH A REAL HIGH RESOLUTION SETTING AT LEAST TWICE THE SIZE YOU NEED, THEN RESIZE WITH THE PAINT PROGRAM. THIS WILL MAKE CRISP DETAIL IN 1/24 SCALE.
Update: I used a laser printer for the Crank Monster II and the colours are amazingly brighter than ink jet. Laser printer recommended.
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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:43 pm

FOLLOW GERRY ALONG ON A FEW DIFFERENT INTERESTING BUILDS.
THE ANTIQUES ARE FANTASTIC ACCOMPANIED BY SOLID ADVICE.
AN EXCELLENT BLOG ON BIKES AND GENERAL BIKE REPAIRING.

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http://howtofixbikes.blogspot.com/2006/08/about-this-bicycle-repair-blog.html

IF YOU PEDDLE, THIS SITE SHOULD BE IN YOUR FAVORITE BOOKMARKS!!!
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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:43 pm

The TerraTrike EDGE

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http://www.wizwheelz.com/ttedge.htm $4499 (OUCH)
WHAT A MACHINE!! I HAD THE HONOR OF BEING ABLE TO TAKE ONE OF THESE FOR A RIDE THIS LAST SUMMER. PERSONALLY I DON'T CARE FOR THE RECUMBENT POSITION BUT IT WAS QUITE AN EXPERIENCE. I HAVE TEST RODE A MORE AFFORDABLE RECUMBENT TRIKE FROM A DIFFERENT COMPANY AND IT WAS A SLUG IN COMPARISON.

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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:43 pm

A FEW YEARS BACK I GOT INVOLVED IN A COUPLE OF BIKE FRAME BUILDS.
NOT WORTH TRYING
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
THIS IS NOT WORTH TRYING UNLESS PROPER HARDENED THIN WALL TUBING IS USED. AND YOU KNOW HOW TO WELD ALUMINUM. I USED A MIG ON THIS ONE BUT A TIG WOULD BE MUCH BETTER FOR THIN WALL.
IN SHORT. LEAVE THE METAL FRAME BUILDING TO THE COMPANIES THAT ARE SETUP TO DO IT RIGHT. BY DOING SOME RESEARCH THERE IS METHODS OF MAKING CARBON FIBRE AND FIBERGLASS COMPOSITE FRAMES WITH FOAM AS A BASE. HIGH TECH FLUID LOOKING DESIGNS CAN BE MADE THAT WAY FOR LITTLE COST.
ARE 4 WHEELS BETTER THAN 2 ?
ANOTHER FRAME I PLAYED WITH WAS A HOMEMADE 4 WHEEL PEDDLE BIKE. THIS WAS DESIGNED AND BUILT BY A SMALL GROUP OF FRIENDS, ONE WAS AN ENGINEERING STUDENT. IT WAS BASICALLY A 5 SPEED PEDDLE POWERED GO-KART. 20" WHEELS, FRAME 4" OFF GROUND. I USED 2x2 ALUMINUM TUBING. A H SHAPE FRAME WHICH WASN'T STRONG ENOUGH SO CABLE TENSIONERS WERE ADDED TO STOP FLEX. STEERING WAS FIRST GO-KART STYLE WITH NUTS AND BOLTS PIVOT POINTS. THAT WAS MUCH TOO SLOPPY, SO SMALL HYME FLEX JOINTS WERE USED FOR TIE ROD ENDS ETC. VERY NICE, NO SLOP IN STEERING. BRAKES WERE ORIGINALLY A SINGLE DISC ON THE REAR (DRIVE) AXLE BUT PROBLEMS WITH SEVERE TIRE WEAR WERE NOTICED DUE TO SLIDING AND FISHTAILING. IT WAS A BLAST TO SLIDE AROUND. A MAJOR BRAKE IMPROVEMENT WAS ADDING BRACKETS TO THE FRONT WHEELS AND ADDING SIDE PULL RIM CLAMPER BRAKES FROM FROM AN OLD 10 SPEED. THIS CONFIGURATION WAS USED WITH 2 LEVERS AND 1 LEVER FOR BOTH. ONCE ADJUSTED PROPERLY FOR FRONT TO BACK BIAS, THE 1 LEVER WAS GREAT. THE STEERING WHEEL WAS A HOMEMADE BUTTERFLY DRAGSTER STYLE MADE FROM 1/8 SHEET. BRAKE LEVER(S), SHIFTER, LIGHT SWITCH (BATTERY POWERED), LED TURN SIGNALS/BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH WERE ALL MOUNTED ON THE WHEEL. THE SEAT WAS MADE FROM A FRAME AND SOME MESH STOLEN FROM SOME CAMPING GEAR IN AN UMBRELLA STYLE. PRETTY COMFY BUT IT MOVED AROUND TOO MUCH. SIMILAR TO SOME RECUMBENT BIKE SEATS. ALL TOLD IT WAS A PRETTY FAIR MACHINE WHEN DONE CONSIDERING IT WAS BUILT AROUND 1989. OLD TEN SPEED PARTS, A VERY LONG CHAIN, AIRCRAFT CABLE TENSIONERS AND STEEL 20"WHEELS ADDED A LOT OF EXTRA WEIGHT TO AN ALREADY FAIRLY HEAVY BIKE. TOTAL WEIGHT WAS 48 lb. USING TODAYS AVAILABLE PARTS A FEW POUNDS COULD BE TRIMMED. IT REALLY WOULD HAVE BENEFITED FROM ANOTHER 10 OR MORE GEARS. HILL CLIMBING WAS A *****. TOP SPEED WAS RIGHT AROUND A NORMAL 10 SPEED. A BETTER FRAME DESIGN AND MATERIAL SELECTION WOULD HAVE GREATLY IMPROVED THE WHOLE CONCEPT. A RECTANGLE BOX FRAME WOULD MAKE THE WHOLE DESIGN MUCH SIMPLER AND MORE ADAPTABLE TO MOUNTING COMPONENTS AND SUSPENSION. ALSO IT WAS NOT MEANT FOR OFF ROAD THE WAY IT WAS CONSTRUCTED. AND THAT WAS ITS DEMISE. TOO ROUGH, TOO FAST. IT ENDED UP LOOKING LIKE A RACING WHEEL CHAIR WITH EXTREME CAMBER. IT WAS NEVER RECOVERED FROM THAT STATE AND ENDED UP JUNKED. TOTAL MILEAGE ENDED UP 380 I THINK ACCORDING TO THE LITTLE ODOMETER ON THE FRONT WHEEL, SO IT HAD A FAIR LIFESPAN. A GREAT BUILDING EXPERIENCE THAT TAUGHT A LOT OF LITTLE LESSONS.
A PROJECT WORTH TRYING IF YOU HAVE THE TOOLS TO DO IT PROPERLY. PARTS OF THE BUILD BEYOND ONES CAPABILITIES LIKE WELDING AND MACHINING CAN BE FARMED OUT AT ADDITIONAL COST. WEIGHT IS THE ENEMY ON A 4 WHEEL. BE SURE TO HAVE FULL MOUNTAIN BIKE GEARS LIKE 21 OR MORE SPEEDS. THEY ARE NEEDED. DESIGNING SUSPENSION INTO THE FRAME WOULD BE A HUGE ASSET. 4 WHEEL DISC BRAKES WOULD BE VERY WISE. OR AT LEAST 2 FRONT AND 1 REAR AXLE.

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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:44 pm

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE BIKE
I HAD THE JOY OF TUNING UP ONE OF THESE FROM ABOUT 1991 LAST MONTH. IT HAD BEEN RIDDEN FOR ONE SUMMER THEN STORED SINCE. IT WAS PRETTY MUCH ACCESSORIZED MUCH LIKE THIS PIC. EVEN HAD THE STREAMERS AND TRAINING WHEELS ON IT STILL. 16" WHEELS.
I SEEM TO REMEMBER AN INCIDENT FROM AROUND 90-91 INVOLVING A STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE BIKE AND TO MUCH BEER BEFORE XMAS SHOPPING. IT SEEMS THE MALL SECURITY DIDN'T LIKE HER DAD RIDING THE BIKE FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER YELLING HIS HEAD OFF, RINGING THE BELL. BIG MALL, XMAS SHOPPING ON A SATURDAY AND IT WAS CROWDED. WHAT WAS HE THINKING ?!?! MY BUDDY'S DAUGHTER SURE WAS HAPPY THAT YEAR SO IT WAS WORTH IT.

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Re: MOSTLY MOUNTAIN BIKES

Postby zappdog » Fri May 15, 2009 4:44 pm

ANOTHER PROJECT I GOT INTO AROUND 1992 OR SO WAS BUILDING A TRI-ATHALON BIKE FOR A FRIEND. HIS BIKE AT THAT TIME WAS A DECENT ITALIAN ALUMINUM FRAME 10 SPEED. WORTH ABOUT $1200 THEN. HE GOT ME TO TUNE IT UP FOR HIM AND BECAUSE IT WAS SUCH A DECENT BIKE I TOOK EXTRA CARE AND TIME ON IT. HE RANTED AND RAVED ABOUT THE QUALITY OF MY WORK AFTER HIS FIRST RIDE. THAT WAS WHAT CONVINCED HIM TO GET ME TO BUILD HIS NEXT BIKE. I KEEP THINKING IT WAS A CANNONDALE OR KLEIN FRAME BUT I'M NOT SURE ANYMORE ON THAT. I KNOW HE WENT TO CALIFORNIA TO THE FACTORY TO GET MEASURED ON AN ADJUSTABLE FRAME JIG. HE WAS 6'5" AND THE 23" ITALIAN FRAME WAS TOO SMALL FOR HIM. SO WHILE HE WAS DOWN THERE HE WENT ON A SHOPPING SPREE FOR MOST OF THE COMPONENTS. WHAT HE DIDN'T GET DOWN THERE WE GOT UP HERE.
HERE IS A LIST OF SOME OF THE COMPONENTS FROM WHAT I CAN REMEMBER.
MAVIC 100C 24 SPOKE RIMS, FLAT TITANIUM SPOKES, SUNTOUR HUBS (MOUNTAIN BIKE),
CAMPAGNOLO SHIFTERS AND DERAILLEURS, 56 TOOTH CAMPAGNOLO RECORD CHAINSET, BROOKS SADDLE. ALL TOLD IN THE END HE HAD $4200 INTO THE BIKE. AND THAT WASN'T ANY LABOUR COST OF MINE IN THERE EITHER, I BUILT IT FOR FREE JUST BECAUSE IT WAS AN HONOR TO BE ABLE TO DO ONE THAT NICE. IT SURE WAS A NICE MACHINE WHEN DONE.
IT WEIGHED ABOUT 20.5 lb. ON THE BATHROOM SCALE (19.85 lb. ON A DIGITAL) I TRIED TO RIDE IT FOR A TEST BUT THE FRAME WAS JUST WAY TOO BIG. I COULDN'T REACH THE PEDDLES AND THEY WERE MADE FOR THE RIDING SHOE SOLE CLIPS, NOT SNEAKERS. I DID NOT WANT TO HURT THAT BIKE SO I LET HIM RIDE IT AND TELL ME HOW MUCH HE LIKED IT. I NORMALLY DO NOT RIDE ROAD BIKES. I DON'T LIKE THAT POSITION BUT I REALLY WANTED TO TAKE THAT ONE FOR A GOOD BURN. IT WAS JUST TOO DARN BIG.
ANYWAY THAT YEAR AND THE NEXT, HE WENT TO THE PODIUM IN THE TOP 3, MORE THAN A FEW TIMES IN SMALL TRI-ATHALONS AND A SECOND PLACE IN A BIG ONE IN HAWAII. HE STILLS SWEARS IT WAS THAT BIKE THAT HELPED HIM DO THOSE. I SAW THE TAPE OF THE HAWAII ONE AND HE DID MAKE THE BEST TIME IN THE BIKE SEGMENT. IF HIS SWIMMING WOULD HAVE BEEN A FEW SECONDS FASTER HE WOULD HAVE WON 1st. I TEASED HIM THAT HE SHOULD HAVE SPENT SOME OF THAT MONEY ON SWIMMING LESSONS.
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